Friday, April 30, 2010

i'm working on a Selvage edge Tshirt fabric. Its never been done before! It is only possible on woven machines. But you and Warp knit it!


The selvage of a piece of curtain fabric. Note the selvage: the self-finished edge (foreground), regular weave pattern, maker's marks and the start of the main print.

The selvage (US English) or selvedge (British English) is the term for the self-finished edges of fabric. The selvages keep the fabric from unraveling or fraying.[1][2] The selvages are a result of how the fabric is created. In woven fabric, selvages are the edges that run parallel to the warp (the longitudinal threads that run the entire length of the fabric), and are created by the weft thread looping back at the end of each row. In knitted fabrics, selvages are the unfinished yet structurally sound edges that were neither cast on nor bound off.[3][4] Historically, the term selvage applied only to loom woven fabric, though now can be applied to flat-knitted fabric.

The terms selvage and selvedge are a corruption of "self-edge", and have been in use since the 16th century.[5]

Selvage in the print industry refers to the excess area of a printed or perforated sheet of any material, such as the white border area of a sheet of stamps or the wide margins of an engraving etc..

In woven cloth

In textile terminology, threads that run the length of the fabric (longitudinally) are warp ends. Threads running laterally from edge to edge, that is from left side to right side of the fabric as it emerges from the loom, are weft picks. Selvages form the extreme lateral edges of the fabric and are formed during the weaving process. The weave used to construct the selvage may be the same or different from the weave of the body of the fabric cloth. Most selvages are narrow, but some may be as wide as .75 inches (19 mm). Descriptions woven into the selvage using special jacquards, colored or fancy threads may be incorporated for identification purposes. For many end-uses the selvage is discarded. Selvages are 'finished' and will not fray because the weft threads double back on themselves and are looped under and over the warp.[2]

Handwoven selvages vs. industrial selvages

There is a slight difference between the selvages in handweaving and in industry, because while industrial looms originally very closely mimicked handweaving looms, modern industrial looms are very different. A loom with a shuttle, such as most hand weaving looms will produce a very different selvage from a loom without a shuttle, like some of the modern industrial looms. Also in industry sometimes the selvage is made thicker with a binding thread.

Selvages of fabrics formed on weaving machines with shuttles, such as hand looms, are formed by the weft turning at the end of each pick (pass of the weft thread) or every second pick. To prevent fraying, various selvage motions (or "styles") are used to bind the warp into the body of the cloth. Selvages are created to protect the fabric during weaving and subsequent processing (ie burnishing, dyeing and washing) but ideally should not detract from the finished cloth via ripples, contractions or waviness.[2]

In handweaving the selvage is generally the same thickness as the rest of the cloth, and the pattern may or may not continue all the way to the edge, thus the selvage may or may not be patterned. A plain weave selvage is the other option, where the last few threads on either side are woven in plain weave.

In industry the selvage may be thicker than the rest of the fabric, and is where the main weft threads are reinforced with a tight weft back binding to prevent fraying.[6] More simply, they "finish" the left and right-hand edges of fabric as it exits the loom, especially for the ubiquitous "criss-cross" simple or tabby weave, referred to in industry as taffeta weave.[7] Selvages on machine-woven fabric often have little holes along their length, through the thick part, and can also have some fringe.[8] The type or motion of selvage depends on the weaving technique or loom used. A water- or air-jet loom creates a fringed selvage that is the same weight as the rest of the cloth, as by the weft thread is drawn via a jet nozzle, which sends the weft threads through the shed with a pulse of water. The selvage is then created by a heat cutter which trims the thread at both ends close to the edge of the cloth, and then it is beaten into place. Thus it creates a firm selvage with the same thickness as the rest of the cloth.[9]

Usability of the selvage

Very often fabric near the selvage is unused and discarded, as it may have a different weave pattern, or may lack pile or prints that are present on the rest of the fabric, requiring that the selvage fabric be cut off or hidden in a hem. Since industrial loomed fabric often has selvages that are thicker than the rest of the fabric, the selvage reacts differently. It may shrink or "pucker" during laundering and cause the rest of the object made with it to pucker also.

Thicker selvages are also more difficult to sew through, because they are thicker. Quilters especially tend to cut off the selvage right after washing the fabric and right before cutting it out and sewing it together.[1]

For garments, however, the selvage can be used as a structural component as there is no need to turn under that edge to prevent fraying if a selvage is used instead.[10] Using the selvage eliminates unnecessary work, thus the garment article can made faster, the finished garment is less bulky and can be stitched entirely by machine.[11] This is of major benefit for the mass-produced ready-to-wear clothing of modern society, however it is less used in homemade clothes because of the tendency of the selvage to pucker.

In the decorative embellishment of garments, especially in decorative pleat or ruffles, a selvage used as a ruffle is "self-finished", that is, it does not require additional finishing work such as hem or bias tape to prevent fraying.[12]

In knitted cloth

Applying the term selvage to a hand-knitted object is still relatively new. Most books on fabric define a selvage as the edge of a woven cloth, however the term is coming into usage for hand-knitted objects. The edges of machine-knitted fabric on the other hand are rarely if ever referred to as selvages.

Selvages in knitting can either bear a special pattern worked into the first and last stitches or simply be the edge of the fabric. The two most common selvage stitches are the chain-edge selvage and the slipped-garter edge, both of which produce a nice edge. The chain-edge selvage is made by alternating rows of slipping the first stitch knitwise and knitting the last stitch, with rows of slipping the first stitch purlwise and purling the last stitch.[3][13] The slipped garter edge is made by slipping the first stitch knitwise and knitting the last in every row.[3] Other selvages include a garter stitch border one stitch wide, or a combination of the above techniques.[13]

Knitting selvages makes the fabric easier to sew together than it would be otherwise. It also makes it easier to pick up stitches later,[3][13] and is a good basis for crocheting a further decorative edge onto.[13][14]

DSC00180.jpg Showing off the selvage image by dschroe6Selvaged Edged Grid100%COTTON RED-SELVAGE DENIM 1

Thursday, April 29, 2010

A Bathing Ape x CASIO G-SHOCK DW-6900

bape bathing ape casio gshock dw6900 A Bathing Ape x CASIO G SHOCK DW 6900

Air Force's Falcon Hypersonic Glider Disappears Mysteriously....True story!

Air Force's Falcon Hypersonic Glider Disappears Mysteriously

The Air Force's Falcon Hypersonic Technology Vehicle 2—designed to attack global targets at Mach 20—has disappeared nine minutes into its first test flight, just after separating from its booster. Contact was lost, and it hasn't been found yet.

The Falcon was supposed to splash down in the Pacific Ocean after a 30-minute, 4,100-nautical-mile test flight. Not to be confused with the unmanned X-37B space shuttle—which launched on April 22—the Falcon Hypersonic Technology Vehicle 2 blasted off last week from the Vandenberg Air Force Base on a Minotaur IV rocket.

Instead of completing its flight, however, the Air Force lost all contact with the aircraft. According to DARPA's Johanna Spangenberg Jones:

Preliminary review of data indicates the HTV-2 achieved controlled flight within the atmosphere at over Mach 20. Then contact with HTV-2 was lost. This was our first flight (all others were done in wind tunnels and simulations) so although of course we would like to have everything go perfectly, we still gathered data and can use findings for the next flight, scheduled currently for early 2011.

Just that: The telemetry data signal vanished, and the aircraft is nowhere to be found. Being a semi-secret project, nothing else has been disclosed. The only logical explanations are 1) a massive structural failure, 2) Nazi UFOs or 3) somebody lost it in a beer garden. I will pick number two for the time being.

The hypersonic glider is built by Lockheed Martin under a DARPA program. It's designed to launch conventional weapons against any target in the planet in just one hour. This capability makes it a perfect substitute for Intercontinental Ballistic Missiles. Unlike ICBMs loaded with conventional heads, the plane can't be mistaken with a nuclear missile, so it won't make other nuclear powers to hit the red button. Maybe. [Physorg]

taz arnold and Ti$A - study up..

next up after B.O.B.... yes sir!

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Mercedes F800


We’ll be the first to admit, we’re Mercedes apologists and we were eagerly anticipating the debut of the latest and greatest from Stuttgart. This time it came in the form of the F800, a research design study that really speaks to the current direction of the brand. While some seem to think the F800 is a precursor to the next-generation CLS, we think it’s more likely that the CLS would merely borrow from a few design successes of the F800. The vehicle itself was lent a few things from existing Benz models, with the C-Class pug nose and the heroic, single-bar grille found on the SLS, among others. The headlamps certainly scream CLS, and with LED-mania still in full swing it stands to reason that we could be looking at the newest iteration of Mercedes lights. The rear of the car is not traditional Benz; the rear lights have migrated from the top of the trunk and are now oblong, bearing a resemblance to several current Jaguar lights. The F800 has also jumped on the oversized exhaust-port bandwagon, which is typically a sleek look but on this model looks too chunky and futuristic. The car really shines from the side, however; the beltline fades in and out at the rear doors, which is a truly terrific look. The rising line from the bottom of the front doors (a look copied on both luxury and economy cars these days) continues seamlessly onto the rear bumper and integrates very well into the overall design of the car.

Karl lamp

Thursday, April 8, 2010

XXL freshmen 10 now have a rap name super group..the all city chess club!?!?

Lupe Fiasco stirred up some speculation and anticipation this weekend with a brief but noteworthy announcement on his Twitter account. The Chi-Town rapper broadcast two tweets this past Friday, April 2, alluding he was in the studio brewing up something special with a group of young rappers that he dubbed the "All City Chess Club."

"All City Chess Club was in the studio last night," he wrote. Four hours later, Lupe decided to explain his first message a bit, writing, "This is All City Chess Club fyi: Asher Roth, B.o.B., The Cool Kids, Charles Hamilton, Blu, Diggy, J. Cole and Lupe Fiasco." Though Lupe failed to reveal any further details, his tweets have sent the blogosphere buzzing about the possible collaborative work between this group of young emcees.
With the exception of Lupe, The Cool Kids and Diggy Simmons – who recently inked his first deal with Atlantic Records – the rest of the lineup are all alumni of XXL's Freshman Class feature. J. Cole is expected to release his debut album this Spring, as is B.o.B., who had two of the most acclaimed mixtapes of 2009 -- 'The Warm Up' and 'B.o.B vs. Bobby Ray.' Charles Hamilton, who lost his record deal with Interscope in 2009, comes as the most surprising name in the bunch, as he's been M.I.A. from the industry for the past year.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Per Arnoldi!!

Per Arnoldi

"I didn't want to wait until Per Arnoldi dies to celebrate his life. The clever Danish poster maker is way more than a teacher to me, looking at his work is like going to school for the first time, you're scared and afraid but you know you're going to learn tons and have fun in the process. Some of his solutions are repetitive and formulaic, whether intended or otherwise, but you forgive him because he is so prolific and he hits more often than he misses. His clarity of thought comes trough his clean and elegant ideas, where less is always more; The cliché, the obvious and deceptively simple solution to a complex design problem, that is not so obvious to most until he implements it, the masterful use of a flat & very limited primary palette which he wields about like a toddler with a full set of crayola crayons, always true to the Bauhaus tradition. I raise my corona bottle to you, Per!"
Process Junkie

Per ArnoldiPer ArnoldiPer ArnoldiPer ArnoldiPer ArnoldiPer Arnoldi

johnny cupcakes! dope package!

Monday, April 5, 2010

Porsche 918 Spyder plug-in hybrid!!! wow !! 78 mpg, hits 62 mph in 3.2 seconds

Nike Air Max 180 – White/Aqua/Orange Easter color way!!!

When the Air Max 180’s dropped with their Easter color way a few years back they were a pretty cool release but it was hard for certain people to get behind them due to the pastel nature of their upper. Well in a great turn of events it looks like the shoe has dropped in a similar feeling color way that isn’t nearly as blatant.

These have nothing to do with the holiday other than the timing of their release but you can’t front on the pastel being somewhat right on time. They have a white upper with mainly orange accents and blue detailing on the swoosh, lining and heel. Look for these are your favorite boutiques stateside with limited availability or at size?